A great deal has been written about Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar’s venture into the Hampshire countryside. Yet for all the superlatives that readily spring to mind, there’s no single phrase that sums up the restaurant he opened in 2008; it’s a gastronomic adventure, a tantalising feast, an indulgent treat of the first order – and a luscious, groundbreaking fusion of East and West.

This unique experience takes place in what, at first glance, is an unlikely setting – a stylish, contemporary building with views over Wickham Vineyard and the subtlest decor imaginable (aside, that is, from the fabulous chandeliers). Muted tones, minimalist decoration and attentive yet never intrusive staff provide a blank canvas for what clearly matters most – the food, the wine and the diner’s enjoyment of both. Vatika’s patrons are made to feel entirely at ease from the moment they walk through the door. Pretentious this restaurant is not, and staff understand that the concept of Anglo-Indian cuisine takes a little getting used to. So they talk about the food, they enthuse about how the wine list features every grape variety in the world, they gently steer your choices in the right direction, yet never make you feel anything other than a welcome guest at a rather special house party.

When the curtain rose on the first of Kochhar’s signature personal touches, we began to understand what makes Vatika so extraordinary. Warm, flavour-packed bread was served with a selection of spiced salts in tiny phials to season the finest of butters, and exquisite amuse bouches interspersed the different stages of our five-course menu (complete with the sommelier’s choice of wine for each dish). Seared scallops, aubergine fritters and spicy lime marmalade, 24-hour shoulder of lamb with spinach dumplings and chlorophyll oil, chocolate cube, banana nuggets and cardamom brulée – the descriptions cannot begin to do justice to the innovative use of local produce, impeccable presentation and subtle explosions of flavour that give each individual spice its own moment of glory. Seductive, special and great fun, Vatika is guaranteed to deliver one of life’s most memorable dining experiences.