Those who bemoan the loss of places to enjoy the rustic and quiet beauty of the Sussex countryside would be well-advised to visit Cromwells at Golding Barn. With stunning views down the lush Adur Valley, and surrounded by quintessentially English walled gardens, the restaurant is a haven from the bustle I was amid just 20 minutes earlier in Brighton. Bright and light inside, and with orchids set upon every table, the former barn has been converted with the utmost taste. The furniture is stylishly weathered and a suffusion of candlelight emphasises the clean lines and hints of the Mediterranean.

The reasonably priced menu, with starters around £6 and mains around £12, has a range of dishes to suit all tastes. I started with the crab and shallot ravioli, which was served with a delicious saffron, rocket and white wine sauce, while my partner chose the avocado and cucumber mousse. Both were delightfully presented and the service proved both attentive and unobtrusive. For mains, I opted for the pan-roasted corn-fed supreme of chicken set atop savoy cabbage and Dauphinois potatoes. Succulent and tender, the chicken was of a high quality and the Dauphinois expertly handled. My partner was very pleased with the vegetarian mushroom pappardelle pasta served with a subtly pleasing white cream sauce and finished with fresh parsley and pine nuts. Puddings came in at around the £5 mark, and I was unable to resist the vanilla pod creme brulée, which cracked under just the right pressure. The honey and pecan tart favoured by my partner was richly textured and very attractive.

As befits the rural setting, Cromwells has a closer relationship with the land than most. Understandably, the head chef has a keen eye on each season’s produce and the rapidly changing menu reflects this – happy diners can expect the next instalment in June.