Bath is renowned as the one-time home of Jane Austen, and to step inside its nearby Lucknam Park is almost to stride right into one of her 19th-Century classics. Indeed, sitting by a crackling open fire among the splendour of the drawing room, we found ourselves enveloped in a world very unlike the one we left at the door of this glorious country house.
The timelessly luxurious surroundings and utterly seamless service felt so organic that both my guest and I were completely at home, even in the midst of such prestige. After Champagne and tantalising amuse-bouches, we moved through to the dining room, where we were greeted by a gentle hum of conversation, twinkling candlelight and our sommelier proffering a wine so well chosen that it saw us through several courses with ease. Scallops were first on the evening’s exquisite bill of fare – more succulent and delicate that I ever thought possible; a standard that continued through the following courses. The main event of beef fillet melted dreamily in the mouth, and was served with rich, soft braised oxtail and minute rings of baby onion. My guest’s turbot with hand-rolled macaroni was yet another triumph in a veritable conveyor belt of exemplary Michelin-starred cuisine. Cheese connoisseurs will delight in the selection of French and UK cheeses, including local cheese Wyfe of Bath and our unanimous favourite, the Stilton and Port. Pre-dessert – a yuzu and white chocolate palate-cleanser – opened the door to the subtly sweet finale that combined flavours of pineapple, toffee, cream and coconut. This is a restaurant that has certainly earned its Michelin star – and how brightly it shines, too.
