On a cold, classically gothic night, my companion and I felt as if we were in a Dickens novel as we made our way towards the monolithic castle in the pretty town of Thornbury. Trees groaned and I'm sure I saw a bat as the heavy door swung open!
There that particular story ends - entering the castle is breathtaking for different reasons. Warm, sensuously decorated, incredibly friendly and surprisingly intimate - Thornbury Castle deserves its first-class reputation. The delightful Marco organised us into the warmth and comfort of the sitting room, where Kir Royales and canapés swept away the last blusters of the night outside. Happily ensconced, menus in hand, we marvelled at our surroundings. Five hundred years of history make the most fantastic backdrop to this really rather modern establishment. Now a Von Essen hotel, Thornbury Castle uses its historical cach' to serve up an all-round, marvellously unpretentious, splendidly opulent dining experience. From the canapés to the petit fours, the food is truly worthy of its castle setting. My langoustine in a sea urchin cream was moist and delicate, while my partner's local goat's cheese with pickled beetroot achieved that balance of smooth and tart.
Continuing the local theme, I chose a glass of white wine made from grapes grown a few metres away and blended at Three Choirs Vineyard in Gloucestershire. Mains followed and we were on course to make this meal one to remember. Organic duck, sourced just a few miles away in Chepstow, was piqued with peppercorns, while the pavé of grey mullet, crab and scallop ravioli was excellent. Desserts and petit fours were also, unsurprisingly, sublime. Generally speaking, I'm not one to overuse superlatives, but where Thornbury Castle is concerned there are frankly not enough of them in the English language.
