Le Bistrot Pierre has a certain ambience of warmth and informality. The decor blends a modern look with traditional Lloyd Loom chairs, beautiful old dressers and shop signs. When we visited, the Bistrot was elegantly dressed for the festive season. There are menus to suit virtually any occasion: prix fixe lunch (£8.95/£10.95 for two or three courses); à la carte; pre-theatre/early evening; Sunday lunch; long weekend (Sunday/Monday night); special gastronomic menus twice monthly (£19.90 for six courses); a party menu; and a dinner with wine menu.

We enjoyed browsing through the tempting array of meat, fish and vegetarian options. To start we shared fritôs de calamar – deep-fried squid with lemon and garlic mayonnaise – and croquette de poisson with wilted spinach. Both were fresh-tasting and very moreish. My companion continued his fishy theme with a main course of brème au citron – succulent fillets of bream with radish, rocket, lemon, peppers and olive oil. This delightful combination of ingredients resulted in wonderfully subtly flavoured mouthful after mouthful. Ever the carnivore, I opted for the chargrilled fillet steak with wild mushroom and brandy sauce. A restaurant can be measured by the chef’s ability to produce a tender, juicy steak and Le Bistrot Pierre passed with honours.

We were especially impressed by the vegetables, which showed creativity and imagination. Potato gratin was a refreshingly different accompaniment, as was the tangy red cabbage – both were delicious. The chef’s special lemon tart was an excellent recommendation – light pastry, with a good sharp filling. My waffle came prettily drizzled with chocolate sauce, topped by ice cream, mint leaves and a strawberry.

It is worth noting that although there is no children’s menu, they charge 50 per cent less for smaller portions from the main menu, or if there is time chef will prepare plainer dishes – a good bonus for families. With restaurants in Nottingham, Leamington Spa, Derby and Leicester, you are never far from a Bistrot Pierre – make a beeline for the nearest one.