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North Yorkshire
Van Zeller

Tucked away in the cobbled streets of the Montpellier Quarter in Harrogate, amongst the antique dealers, ladies' designer fashion retailers and jewellers, is a finely cut gem of a restaurant which opened for business in 2009. Since opening, chef proprietor Tom van Zeller (chef profile page 77) has received a number of awards for his inspirational and skilful blending of textures, flavours and colours and the excellence of the service from his polite and attentive front-of-house team.

Crisp white linen and gleaming contemporary glassware are the first indications of the attention to detail which permeates every aspect of the Van Zeller dining experience. The à la carte menu is freshly printed, with every dish fully described, noting each carefully chosen local ingredient that makes up each meticulously created dish. Starters included lightly poached lobster with spinach purée, apple, celery, mango and pennywort; my guest was delighted by prawns roasted on a skewer of liquorice root decorated with avocado purée and toasted sesame wafer, borage, cucumber, lemon and pink pepper - artistically presented, both dishes were as pretty as a Matisse.

I was sorely tempted by the Yorkshire roast lamb, but chose New Moor rose veal, choucroute, onion purée and bourguignon garnish, while my guest opted for the monkfish tail, roasted on the bone with smoked pomme purée, Pickering watercress, Spillman's asparagus and wine sauce - Tom's experience of working in some of the UK's most respected Michelin-awarded kitchens could clearly be seen and tasted. The accompanying wine list offers something for all, running from an Argentine malbec to a fine Pouillac.

The menu may vary on the day you visit - and visit you should - as van Zeller only uses the best seasonal ingredients, sourced locally wherever possible. In addition to the à la carte you'll often find an early bird menu and a special five-course taster menu - it is wise to book in advance, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. With praise aplenty from local and national press and a collection of sought-after accolades to its name, this fabulous restaurant looks set to continue exciting the palates of Harrogate and beyond.

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