There are people who never look beyond the obvious, but do that in Lymington High Street and you might leave without ever knowing what you missed. Peer left and right down intriguing side alleys as you wind your way through, or you’ll miss the signs for this unusual eatery, nestling quietly just beyond view, simply waiting to be discovered.

Lanes began life around 1800 as a church with split levels and high, arching ceilings, until the village school made its home there. Its quaint dimensions have made an unusual dining scene for decades, and now Nicola and husband Peter have realised their dream of restaurant ownership here. Within cream walls and smooth decor, fine British cuisine is presented with contemporary flair in relaxed surroundings, where the emphasis is most definitely on superlative dining in great company. Nicola’s natural warmth is effortless. She guided our choices and explained how she and Peter work in tandem, bringing the best of everything to every customer.

Dishes offered here make the most of all that the New Forest has to offer. Fish naturally features highly, as Lymington’s marinas lie just a stone’s throw away, but meat lovers and vegetarians have certainly not been ignored. You’ll find options as imaginative as wild boar sausage cakes, seafood gratin or mini pheasant pie, or as deliciously simple as a homemade burger from the grill menu. Under-12s can order smaller portions from the main menu. Naturally, everything is freshly prepared, so enjoy a reasonably priced wine along with the unmissable selection of freshly baked rustic breads while you wait – the almost-black rye bread is particularly delicious. We finished with an excellent baked cheesecake, rare and refreshing – we now really won’t be bothering with inferior chilled versions. Served on a crunchy gingerbread base with homemade ice cream, it really impressed. Private parties can be catered for, and lunch can be a quick snack on market day or a timely two-course occasion (£12.50). At Lanes, everything is exactly how you’d want it.