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Hemel Hempstead
Paper Mill, The

Sitting waterside by the picturesque Grand Union Canal, The Paper Mill hides no secrets about its historic roots, in fact it does quite the opposite. The old mill, which dates back to the 1900s, has beautifully withheld its original features, and proudly boasts original pillars and fireplaces, which are enhanced further by the cosy yet contemporary decor and lighting.

On entering, you are greeted by a relaxed bar area next to the open kitchen, which gives customers the opportunity to watch the chefs at work. Venture up the wide staircase to an additional dining area, with soft lighting, candles and views over the canal - great for a warm summer's evening. Dotted along the walls, and in every nook and cranny, you'll find photographs and interesting memorabilia documenting the history of this lovely building.

The menu here is extensive, with plenty of pub classics as well as new takes on popular dishes. During our visit we chose a deliciously simple baked Camembert to share, served with bread and chilli jam. Soon to follow was chargrilled sirloin steak strips with sauté potatoes, peppers and leaves dressed in a light honey and mustard dressing - a great choice if you're after something less filling, particularly during warmer weather - while my guest was very complimentary about her choice of stuffed chicken with Brie and bacon in a wild mushroom sauce. Both meals were beautifully presented and efficiently served by the floor staff. For dessert, I heartily recommend the raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake, a gorgeously thick, fruity dessert that rounded off the meal perfectly.

The refurbishment of The Paper Mill is part of the major redevelopment of Apsley, which has been ongoing in recent years, and is a credit to the local area. With views over the canal, and surrounded by new property developments, The Paper Mill provides a sleek atmosphere in which to wine and dine, but gives a clear nod of recognition to local history.

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