The Shibden Mill Inn

At the foot of a steep-sided wooded valley, The Shibden Mill sits pretty as a picture. There has been an inn on this site for 350 years, and The Mill's sensitive refurbishment has made the most of its remarkable heritage. It is now a stunning retreat for holidaying in Yorkshire and a destination restaurant famed for its quality great fare and attentive service.

Stepping through the front door, we first entered a low-ceilinged bar before being shown to a table in the intimate dining area. This impressive room features bare stone walls, a giant fireplace and a ceiling criss-crossed by rough-hewn timbers and propped up with a single solid column of English oak. Low curving windows, defensive against the Yorkshire cold, are bulwarks against the ravages of time; a modern day inn is a perfect use of this ancient space.

Once settled in the cosy atmosphere, I began my meal with the bouillabaisse - a tasty blend of seafood flavours, topped with crispy seaweed and big herby croutons with creamy smoked cheese. My partner plumped for the deliciously soft pan-fried king scallops which were imaginatively teamed with a hunk of braised beef, Barolo sauce and stems of samphire. While most mixed grills showcase any number of species, here it's all porcine. Various cuts of Shibden Valley pig - from a lean gammon steak to an indulgent cube of belly pork - grace the plate and are accompanied by slices of chargrilled apple, crunchy crackling and a pastry-wrapped tube of black pudding.

Steak and chips is a mainstay of pub dining and The Shibden's take on this old favourite is well worth trying. Mushroom paté, giant chips and tomatoes perfectly partnered my companion's heroic-sized slab of beautifully tender flat-iron steak - a cut I've not often seen on pub menus. Both main courses benefitted from the smooth Cabernet Sauvignon we had ordered. We completed our meal with a generous selection of Yorkshire cheeses, a luxurious chocolate fondant pudding and two reviving coffees.

Quality dining, a wonderful atmosphere and an historic building amidst beautiful surroundings - it's hardly surprising The Shibden Mill has gathered an impressive array of regional and national awards