Nu at The Royal Castle Hotel

Over the door of The Royal Castle Hotel it states that it has been 'famous since the time of Drake.' The stunning view has probably changed little since then, but there it ends; the recently refurnished Riverview Restaurant offers contemporary decor, formal but friendly service and a relaxed atmosphere in the heart of Dartmouth. This restaurant is superb, evidenced by the high number of non-resident diners that flock here each week.

Owned by the Way family for over 25 years (who also own The Seven Stars in Totnes), The Royal Castle is the first choice for many occasions, from working breakfasts and family parties to intimate dinners. The arrival, via the Savoy in London, of chef Heri Guntur has elevated the cuisine a stage higher, serving classic European cuisine with an Asian twist. He heads the kitchen, which not only serves the restaurant, but also the very popular Galleon Lounge - look out for the curry night held here on Tuesdays.

The menu, which concentrates on locally-sourced meat and fish from the quayside, has plenty of choice. The fish soup at £6.95 was stunning, very rich and spicy, certainly not your everyday soup; and the twice-baked celeriac and Roquefort soufflé served with Quicke's Cheddar sauce and celery apple compote was equally tasty. An Asian influence is evident in the tuna loin, seared with sesame seeds and served with an artichoke and potato rosti on bok choy and finished with tamarind sauce (£14.95); as well as the baked herb and pine nut-crusted halibut fillet, with baby fennel and a mango chilli salsa (£15.25). A good range of desserts from £6.75 included a particularly delicate lavender panna cotta served with rosewater syrup and raspberry jelly.

The 40-bin wine list includes a clever selection of Old and New World wines, many of which are served by the glass. The Royal Castle Hotel is fantastic quality for great value and it's advisable to book a table before you go.