The Leatherne Bottel

If dining was a religion, The Leatherne Bottel would be a shrine for pilgrims. On the outskirts of Goring-on-Thames, down a narrow track and through a wood, a river vista opens, and there, on the bank, is a restaurant that has been transformed from three ancient cottages.

Large enough for a wedding party but cosy enough for a tête-à-tête, this is an establishment that glows with the respect and love of its owner and management team. The chef, Stuart Cockwell, is a Dorset man with the contacts to acquire the finest ingredients. He also has the talent, experience and sense of fun to enable him to create adventures of tastes that will tease and delight even the most critical of palates.

To begin our meal, my husband had rillettes of rabbit and a poached squirrel ballotine served with a tomato glaze, Port wine and passion fruit, and I chose sautéed asparagus drizzled with truffle butter, then topped with a poached hen's egg and blue cheese emulsion. The ingenuity continued into our main courses of oven-baked turbot with a shallot, lime and spring onion gratin, crab sweetcorn and a chilli consommé, and my meaty stone bass cooked above the fire with fresh garden herbs.

With one of the most stunning settings on the river, and food to match, this restaurant truly deserves its fine reputation