The Mermaid at Ellington dates, in part, back to the 14th century. It’s situated in an idyllic Cambridgeshire village close to the A14. This local favourite is now lovingly run by Michelin-star-trained chef Nick Marriott and businessman Oliver Swain. The classy decor nods to the pub’s nautical heritage, with ceiling beams made of 14th-century ship timbers. This adds to the building’s inviting character, resulting in a warm atmosphere that’s ideal for fine dining and drinking.
To begin, we chose soft-shell crab with lemon and lime leaf purée. We learnt that the crabs had recently molted their exoskeleton and were still soft. As a result, the entire crustacean can be eaten, and we could enjoy the beautiful flavours without having to pick around shell. It’s the only dish to remain on the ever-evolving menu due to its popularity. For the main course, we had tender spring lamb on garlic and tomato salsa, served with red pepper spheres and nutty ratte potatoes. Pleasingly, the lamb was cooked perfectly. My partner and I shared chocolate and black bean ice cream before choosing our much anticipated dessert. Our stunningly presented Champignon Forestier arrived, consisting of a tuile biscuit rolled into a ‘fallen tree trunk’ and filled with cep Chantilly cream, which balanced perfectly against the chocolate mousse and chocolate trompette crumb ‘forest floor’. Edible flowers, sweet herbs and fantastic tuile ‘twigs’ made it look almost too good to eat.
The Mermaid at Ellington is quickly creating a name for itself with its contemporary and exiting menu of international cuisines.