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Durham City
Gourmet Spot

Gourmet Spot, or G-Spot as it is naughtily nick-named, is situated within the impressive Farnley Tower, a swanky guesthouse in Durham City’s upmarket Neville Cross area. Having already won Restaurant Magazine’s ‘UK Best Dessert 2007’ and receiving recognition for its adventurous menus, Gourmet Spot certainly promised great things. Newly appointed 26-year-old chef Ashley Paynton has created a stunning menu inspired by his food heroes, like the Roux Brothers, with whom he cut his teeth. Taking his lead from molecular gastronomy, Ashley skilfully mixes cutting-edge techniques with traditional ideas using local, organic produce from sustainable sources, creating new menus that change with the seasons. Where else in the North East can one find roast pork with ice cream and beetroot presented in three ways, including jelly and foam? As Ashley says, ‘few people would think that an ice cream can be savoury and served with meat, but these are the sorts of innovative dishes that are going down a treat with our customers’.

Naturally, my friend and I were already filled with great expectations as we approached the imposing Victorian manor house. We were warmly greeted by friendly and courteous staff, who served us almonds coated with Chinese five spice and pesto popcorn to nibble whilst poring over the menu in the cosy bar area. Sipping the house white, a zesty Côtes de Gascogne, we took in our surroundings. The somewhat bijoux yet intimate dining room represents the height of sophistication, its black leather chairs and muted colours set off by a stunning crystal chandelier.

Our appetites were whetted by a delicious amuse bouche of frothy pea velouté, which arrived in an espresso cup, and a dainty steak tartare garnished with quails egg. Our first courses, beautifully presented on trendy grey slate, wowed us again. The rich ballotine of foie gras wrapped in crispy chicken skin with sauternes jelly and a cherry dressing was simply delightful. Equally impressive was the sous vide mackerel escabeche with spicy tomato chutney and fiery saffron aioli. Indulging ourselves, we shared an amazing dish of seared yellow fin tuna and a surprisingly delicious avocado ice cream, with citrus-packed dressed crab. With five excellent mains to choose from, around the £20 price mark, my partner opted for pan-fried sea trout with a colourful duo of grape jelly and purple potatoes. My wild sea bass with samphire and a plump scallop smacked of the salty-freshness of the sea. Other sensational selections included best end of lamb with wild garlic purée and morels, and wild mushroom risotto for vegetarians. Gourmet Spot certainly lived up to its reputation for delectable desserts. We shared three small but perfectly formed desserts-cum-works of art. A tower of rhubarb and custard consisted of jelly ‘caviar’, creamy custard and rhubarb ice cream. The warm chocolate molleaux melted in the mouth and the creaminess of the butterscotch bavarois was cut by a sharp blood-orange sorbet. If sweetness is not your weakness, then try the selection of artisan cheeses, served with a glass of Quinto do Crasto port.

For that special occasion, look no further than Gourmet Spot – this is fine dining at its best. Other restaurants in the North East should sit up and take notice as Ashley Paynton’s culinary mastery is a cut above the rest. Fi

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