Cast your eyes along the lower level of bustling Covent Garden market and you’ll spot The Crusting Pipe – a traditional Victorian-style wine bar serving the best of classic British cuisine. Taking its name from an antiquated method of Port-making, The Crusting Pipe is a staple stop-off for many a tourist – and the locals have loved it since it opened in the 1980s.
The restaurant is housed within the cellar rooms of the Victorian fruit and vegetable market, and the sense of history can be felt throughout. Subdued lighting illuminates the old vaulted ceilings, exposed brick walls and dark wood cladding, and the cellar’s arched alcoves provide semi-private areas for more intimate dining. The restaurant’s unique position in the market courtyard also carries the advantage of an outdoor dining area, where guests can enjoy live entertainment – everything from string quartets to operatic singers.
The Crusting Pipe is part of the Davy’s portfolio, one of London’s oldest independent wine merchants, so it was no surprise that the wine list featured an excellent array of labels. Friendly, well-informed waiters were on-hand and more than happy to offer suggestions to suit our meal choice. We enjoyed light starters of creamy soup of the day and zesty potted shrimps, which nicely paved the way for our mains. Continuing the seafood theme, I sampled the fillet of sea bass with spiced lentils and rocket. A delightfully crispy skin coated the delicate fish, while the lentils, coriander and balsamic vinegar provided superb accompanying flavours. My partner dined on a deliciously tender leg of grilled lamb with braised peppers, tomato, basil and olives with great satisfaction. A couple of British classics arrived for dessert: indulgent sticky toffee pudding served with traditional Cornish clotted cream, and a luxurious chocolate mousse with a twist of sweet mango and passion fruit which added a fresh, tropical taste.
An impressive selection of cheeses was also on offer, as well as a range of hot and cold bar snacks which are available throughout the day. Pop in and sample the special pre-theatre menu – the perfect precursor to a show – something from the grill or a dish from the delicious à la carte menu.