Food and Drink January 31, 2012
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Central London
Commonwealth Kitchen
Location: The Commonwealth Club, 25 Northumberland Avenue, Strand, Central London, WC2N 5AP [map]
Phone: 020 3390 0493
Open: Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, 5.30pm-9.30pm
Website: www.thecommonwealthclub.co.uk

Entering the Commonwealth Kitchen, based at Westminster’s prestigious Commonwealth Club, one is surrounded by a sense of time and space. The impressive and unique colonial-style clock suspended above the dining room entrance shows the current time in all 54 Commonwealth countries.

With attention to detail and great creativity, head chef Oliver Tobias has designed an eclectic menu of modern European classics with a Commonwealth twist. The menu, which changes fortnightly depending on national events, comes with a short historical, geographical and cultural background of a Commonwealth country. This time round, a taste of Cameroon was on the market menu, which made the choice between the mouth-watering Sussex asparagus, crispy quail’s egg and black truffle vinaigrette, and the ‘jamma-jamma’ soup (mint, coriander and yoghurt) a difficult one.

Main courses are also freshly made delicacies – the explosion of flavours unleashed by the gilthead sea bream with squid, Jésus de Lyon, couscous salad and a sea aster and caper dressing were a wonder. Finally, the warmed Valrhona dark chocolate sponge with eucalyptus and mint parfait provided the finishing touch to a fantastic, superbly executed lunch.

All in all, the international intrigue of the Commonwealth Kitchen offers an exquisite dining experience.


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