Elements is something of a breath of fresh air. Here’s a venue that has thought a little laterally about how people like to eat out these days, and the results are pleasingly bang on the money. It opens early, so you can eat something breakfasty before work. But they don’t stop serving pancakes with maple syrup and bacon, kedgeree with a coconut curry sauce, or boiled eggs and toasty soldiers until early afternoon. So there’s none of the ‘ sorry sir, you’re too late’ that I’ve always found so irritating. You, the customer, can have what you want ... what a radical notion... Lunch is great as well, two courses for £13 or three for £16.50, and finds starters such as baby squid, chilli and coriander, mains like herbed loin of Welsh lamb, beetroot, feta and pine nuts and puds of hot chocolate and ginger fondant. A wonderful à la carte menu includes fillet of Welsh black beef, spinach, pont neuf potatoes or black bream, lobster and pea risotto, and is worth setting aside the time for. All this sounds fantastic, I know, but I’ve saved the best til last … The tasting and grazing menus provide tapas-style Asian-influenced French treats. Sounds intriguing? Try lots of little dishes such as tofu fries, toffee popcorn with caramel foam; artichoke velouté with confit of duck spring rolls; or wild berry gaspacho and an apple doughnut (from the tasting menu – great for a party of people to share); or salmon, smoked belly pork and choucroute; soy roast duck breast, bok choi and sweet potato; or wild mushroom salad (from the grazing menu, again, perfect for sociable eating).

All this comes with lashings of style, friendly service and a great selection of drinks. All the elements, I think you’ll agree, for a great meal out.